the end

Pam said she was missing her grandchildren and was ready to return home. I suggested she go into some store and volunteer to hold someone else's kid for a while and get her kid fix that way. If you get one, carry it around for a while, it will start crying soon, and you can return it to it's proper guardian. Worked for me.

She said her grandchildren were "special" and we should start home soon.

We made it home Saturday night to find temps in the teens and snow. People actually live here ?

There was some ice and wind damage while we were gone. This is what's left of Jakes boat dock next door.

Notice the beautiful brown water in this photo. In some places in Florida, we could see our anchor on the bottom in 10 feet.

So we're back in the cloud belt again............................still in the jaws of winter

GAME OVER

Clearwater

We went for a cruise yesterday up to Clearwater and back. The NOrthern most point of our trip. On board were a baby, an almost teenager, a pregnant ex-boat babe, two old women, an old man and me.

We're back at Gulfport Marina, and will most likely haul out the boat tomorrow (Friday) and start driving NOrth.

Don Pedro Island

Sunday 2-15-09

We motored in the fog as far as Don Pedro Island. There's a public dock there and you can walk over to the beach. Still fogged in, there wasn't much of a crowd--even on Sunday.

The shells on Cayo Costa were not as plentiful in years past, and we wanted to see what might be on D.P. We have lots of shells at home, but I've been wanting to find a shark's tooth. When we took HOOK and Michelle to the secret tarpon spot, Pam and Michelle walked the beach, and Michelle found a shark's tooth. She told Pam there were more on Don Pedro than Cayo Costa. These are the small, fossilized, black sharks teeth. Been around longer than dirt. (Yes, since I'm older than dirt, I can remember that stuff.)

We started walking the beach at D.P. with the "Sanibel Stoop" looking for sharks teeth. It didn't take too long, and we started seeing them. We found a hundert of them. Actual count was 105.

We anchored for the night about 10 miles NOrth of D.P. and were able to get the last half of the Daytona 500 on our TV.

Monday 2-16-09

Motored NOrth up the ICW through Sarasota Bay and spent the night at anchor just off Longboat Key, near Longboat Pass. We plan to get back to Gulfport where we launched on Tuesday afternoon. We will be meeting Beth and Tracy, along with Holly, Madison, & Kendall. They're in a condo on St Pete Beach. We'll spend a few days with them, and then haul out and start home on Saturday.

I've noticed that the emails I send have a much brighter outlook when we're headed south instead of NOrth.

Fogged In

Saturday 2-14-09

We went back through the luv canal again today, to fish in the pond. So far, in the pond I've caught tarpon, grouper, trout, snook, redfish, snapper, jack, sheepshead, and even a snagged mullet.

Today was snook day. I was catching snooks on almost every cast until two guys walked over from the beach and proceeded to wade out into the water right where the snooks were. Those guys seemed happy to catch snappers, but they sure spooked the snooks.

I also hooked the largest snook I've ever lost. He jumped up, shook his head, took a look at me in my dinghy, and just laughed. He straightened the hooks on my mirrolure like they were cheap safety pins. When he jumped, I think his head was 3 feet above the water, but his tail was still in it.

Whatever...............................signed, Pam

We're anchored across from Cabbage Key again tonight. We've been struggling with our batteries to keep them charged and make our little anchor light glow all night. Anchored next to us is a 65' motor yacht that has all three decks illuminated inside, and strings of exterior lights surrounding it on the fly bridge as well as the gunnels. It even has underwater lights shining beneath it. Quite a contrast.

We plan to start NOrth tomorrow.

Sunday

2-15-09

Totally fogged in this morning. Sat at anchor until 11:00, and then overcome by boredom, we took off in the fog. We're able to navigate with the chart plotter, but can't see other boats.

Chico

Friday 2-13-09

Pam got some sad news this morning. Chico, the marina cat at BSM, was not around. She had petted Chico when we were here 3 weeks ago, but couldn't find him this time. She went to the harbormaster's office, and found that he had passed away. They were not sure of his exact age, but he had been at the marina for 20 years. RIP Chico.

We stayed in a slip at Burnt Store last night. Don and Michelle Argay took us into town (Port Charlotte) for pizza.

Unfortunately, when we returned to BSM, we found it was Karaoke night at the restaurant next to our slip, and there were no talented people there. Just loud people.

This morning, we had coffee with Priscilla in her new condo, and caught up on the latest news from Burnt Store Marina. After the fog lifted, we headed out to my new secret tarpon spot. I should have known what would happen when I sent out the email about catching a tarpon. All the way across the harbor, I saw a boat off in the distance on the same course that we were on. I had an eerie feeling of being followed. As soon as we dropped the anchor, look who showed up.

So I loaded them in the dinghy, and after blindfolding them, we went back to the secret spot.

We let the girls out on the beach, while Don and I fished in the lagoon. No tarpon today, but I did catch a nice grouper.

Hard to believe, but this grouper is 4" short of being big enough to keep.

I finally caught a small redfish today--first of this trip.

Back Across Charlotte Harbor

2-12-09

We left Boca Grande (on Gasparilla Island) this morning, and were able to send out emails in front of some condos. Half way across Charlotte Harbor (about 12 miles wide) the fog closed in and reduced visibility to 1/4 mile. I suppose we could have found Burnt Store without it, but the chart plotter program on my laptop came in handy. We passed other boats that were stopped waiting for who knows what.

After showers etc. we're going to call Priscilla and Argay's again.

Sorry, no photos....................fog.

iguana update

While riding our bikes today on the island, we noticed that the iguana "relocation" program was not totally successful.

As a matter of fact, it seems they were only able to "relocate" the weak, slow ones. The remaining iguanas are now stronger than ever--and mean. They've started inbreeding, and there is a trend toward ferociousness. I saw some that were starting to loose their tails, and walk upright on their hind legs only. They are morphing into a revengeful breed of monsters. Some are driving golf carts, and I think I saw one driving a BMW. Soon they will be opening their own law practices.

Unlike Tom's fish reports, this is NOT all true. Signed, Pam

Boca Grande

2-10-09

More tunnel of luv.......................

On the way back out, we paused in the little pond between the tunnel and the beach. The water is very tannin stained, and the place is about as big as a small Indiana farm pond. I had my lightweight fishing pole, and a few Gulp shrimp. I casted up near the mangroves, and wham !

After about two jumps, I knew what I had.....................TARPON !!

It continued to jump several more times, and then charged towards the boat. I watched without being able to do much else as it jumped over and under the dinghy's anchor line a couple of times and was gone. I had been asking Pam to get the camera out and get a photo of it jumping, but she never does anything the first time I ask, so all I have is her sworn testimony.

Yes, it's all true. Signed, Pam

Here's where the tarpon had been jumping just moments earlier

Pam wanted to ride our bikes at Boca Grande, or else I'd still be there trying to hook another tarpon. I'm hoping we can get back in there before we head NOrth.

So we motored over to Boca Grande, and anchored with a bunch of sailboats--including the same Hunter 260 with the two couples from Dayton. The drill here is to drop anchor in the channel, and then back up and tie the stern to the mangroves.

We took the dinghy for a tour of the island, and found another small cruiser like us.

We are now official, certified cruisers. We've been out long enough that we actually ate a can of Dinty Moore Beef Stew for dinner--instead of just carrying a can around for years. I doubt if the folks on the boat in the photo above had Dinty Moore tonight. I also doubt if they had any more fun than us today.

Cayo Costa

2-10-09

On the way over to the tunnel of luv, we picked up a dolphin that swam along with the dinghy for a few minutes.

We made it through the tunnel of luv this morning. Since Hurricane Charlie, it's not really a "tunnel" any longer (the mangroves grew together over the top of the passage), and it doesn't offer much luv to an inflatable.

However, the luv is at the end of the tunnel. This is such a beautiful beach.

Here's looking north.

Here's looking south.

There's not another human being in these two photos. Compare this to the photo of Ft Myers Beach I sent earlier.

But the real luv was later...........................................

Pig Island

2-10-09

We anchored off pig island last night. We were going to go back in the small hole on the north end of Punta Blanca, but there was a Hunter 260 already in there. Two couples from Dayton, OH.

Here's pig island.

We learned that there are no pigs left on pig island. We had seen them here 2 years ago. They've been relocated once again. They were on Cayo Costa, and were relocated to this island. Now they're somewhere else. Probably like the iguanas were "relocated" from Gasparilla Island. People wanted them gone, but didn't want to see them killed. So, they "relocated" them to a different island. Then killed them there.

We're going to try the tunnel of luv again today. High tide is a little after 1 pm, so we'll try going in a little before that. If we make it in, it's even more important to get back before the tide goes out. If you don't get this email, you'll know we didn't make it.

Sanibel

2-9-09

Of course our $61 slip fee included fresh hot blueberry muffins and a USA Today newspaper delivered to our boat this morning.

We rode our bikes down to the lighthouse this morning, and then up to a small grocery to buy supplies. I didn't know Buick made bicycles until I saw all the old dudes riding the bike path on Sanibel.

As soon as Pam gets on shore, she picked up with some other sailor gone bad

You don't see this in many marina parking lots

Sanibel Marina

Called Sanibel Marina today, and made a reservation for a slip for tonight (Sunday). The harbormaster said we could not arrive before 2:30 pm and should be gone by 11:00 am tomorrow. Sanibel Marina is probably the prettiest marina we've been to. Also the most expensive. ($61.00)

There's not many people staying on boats in this marina. Mostly nice fishing boats--Pursuits, GB's and GW's. Also a few larger cruisers and one other Rosborough (same as our boat). Sitting in the parking lot near the entrance is a small sailboat. It's a Doughdish like the one I owned in the mid 80's. People here have good taste.

We rode our bicycles up Periwinkle Way for several miles. Pam did some shopping and then we stopped at the Lazy Flamingo for dinner. (She'd been wanting a mesquite grilled grouper Caesar salad.) It was dark when we got back. We walked around the marina and some of the big sport fishermen boats had their underwater lights on. I've never seen so many snooks. There must have been a hundert under the docks and behind the two boats with their lights on. What a sight! Here's one that stayed around till morning.

Not Naples

While cruising the canals, we met a deck boat with eight guys and an inflatable woman. She looked vaguely familiar.

We also saw what must be the best boson's chair ever

They're some nice boats in St James City also..................here's a Grand Banks.

Note the house in front of which it's docked.

St James City surely must be immune from a direct hit from a hurricane or else all these 1950's mobile homes would not still be here.

I like Pine Island--we even rented a condo on the north end of it two years ago, but it's certainly not Naples.

St James City

2-7-09

Last night, we anchored on the south end of Pine Island--near St James City--with six sailboats.

I got the dinghy down and went fishing. Caught a hundert ladyfish, and some small trout. (For those of you who might not know, "hundert" is a unit of measure that applies exclusively to fishing--it's when you catch more than you can count.) It's been so cool here that most of the fish are hiding someplace that I haven't found yet. It's going to warm up this week, so they should come back out to play soon.

In the afternoon, we took the dinghy on a tour of the canals on the south end of Pine Island--St James City.

There are some very nice houses

But it's not Naples. Even the restaurants are different

There are miles of canals.

Hello Sanibel

We went out Gordon Pass about 9:00. Someone there has a strong unsecured wifi signal, so we paused long enough to send and receive email. (For the third time) The seas in the gulf were about 2 -3 feet, wind from the north, so we decided to go. Turned out to be an uneventful trip (the best kind). I had tried to fix all the leaks in the hatches etc. from our earlier attempt, and we had enough water splashing on the deck and windshield (thankfully we have windshield wipers) to determine that the leaks were fixed. Except for the solar vent. I looked for a deck plate for it at the Naples Ship Store, but I might as well have been looking for an R C Cola and a Moon Pie.

The toughest part of the trip today was dodging the crab pots. They're everywhere, and in no apparent order. I used to like crabs. There was a lot of traffic along the coast.

Good bye to Naples. Too Depressing.

Hello Sanibel

Out of Naples

2-6-09

Yesterday afternoon, and again this morning, we heard the Coast Guard on the VHF radio repeatedly hail "Deidra" a 26' sailboat and gave the names of two guys who were aboard. They left Everglades City somewhere around the same time as us, but were headed south. The Coast Guard said they were overdue, and all boaters should be on the lookout for them. If they went through the rough seas we did they could be swimming with the fishes.

Last week, we heard the Coasties hail for a different boat that was overdue in it's arrival. Later that day, we heard the captain reply to the Coast Guard that he was ok. The Coasties admonished him and told him to let his wife know where he was. Probably drinking in a bar somewhere. I hope that's the case with "Deidra".

It was cool in the boat this morning. The thermometer on the dash showed 40 degrees. I got up pre-sunrise and started the generator to run our little heater before Pam finds out how cold it really is. I hope this is the end of the cold weather.

The harbormaster from Naples City Docks called my cell phone this morning about 7 am. She said she thought we were still there, and wanted us to pay for another night. I told her we left yesterday about 2:30. She said check out time was noon. (She didn't mention check out time when we checked in.) I told her we had ridden our bikes to the grocery, and by the time we got back, packed up and left, it was later than we had planned..............sorry if we inconvenienced her. I'll probably find a charge for another night on my credit card when I get home. I need a T-shirt with "I love Naples" (but of course T-shirts are not allowed most places in Naples.)

We saw a deer walking around a mangrove island at low tide this morning. We're going to try to go outside up towards Sanibel again today.

Naples

2-5-09

We had an uncomfortable night last night. We're near the end of the dock on Naples City Docks, and the waves splashed against the side of the boat all night. When we're anchored, (which we will be tonight) the waves don't hit us broadside. Also, the tide was so low that the fender I put out earlier was protecting the roof not the hull, and we suffered a few scratches on the hull from barnacles.

We rode our bicycles several miles to the local Naples grocery store. We bought about $20 worth of groceries. (However, $20 worth of groceries cost $60 in Naples.) I suspect all the groceries are flown in by private Lear Jets since they are constantly landing and taking off from the Naples airport.

We will be departing Naples soon, and anchoring out tonight awaiting another attempt to go outside up by Sanibel tomorrow. So no emails for a few days.

I saw the temperatures in Indiana last night, so I doubt if anyone cares that it was in the upper 20's here.

Naples

We peeked out Gordon Pass this morning, and saw the NW winds building to 20 mph, and decided to spend a quiet day in Naples (there's no "i" in Naples)

Pam got her laundry done, and I can wear underwear again. (Too cold to go commando)

We saw more signs of the depressed housing market. There doesn't seem to be much of a market for Rolls Royce's or Hinckley's either, as everyone here still has them.

We rode our bikes up to "Tin City" where I once again had grouper tacos.

Very cold tonight (upper 20's). NOAA weather radio is constantly warning about freezing temperatures and wind chills. We're on shore power in the Naples City Docks, so we can fire up the heater.

At least the City Dock here is no more expensive than most. With our Boat US discount it's $!.50/ foot. There's a 30' minimum, but that's pretty typical everywhere. They still don't have free wifi, but I can walk over to the hotel next door and get on line.

Jumping Dolphin and Rough Seas

2-3-09

We didn't make it to Sanibel today. From Fakahatchee to Marco was not too bad. Marco Island sticks out far enough to protect that part of the journey from the NW winds. We even had a jumping dolphin travel along with us for a while putting on quite a show. Here's some photos, and a video is attached.

We cut through at Goodland behind Marco Island. Sent email earlier today in front of condos on Marco Pass. We started out Marco Pass, thinking that we were headed for Sanibel. NOAA weather radio was all excited about a freeze warning for Wednesday night, and they barely touched on the current weather. They said the wind was NW at 10 to 15 mph. Since we'd had no trouble south of Marco, I was still on for Sanibel. The waves were crashing on the shoals around Marco pass, but I thought it would get calmer once we cleared the pass. I was wrong. We shouldn't have gone out. It was so bad, I was afraid to turn around and go back in. Waves were breaking over our bow, and I was certain we'd broach if I tried to make a turn. It got no better, and I knew we'd never make Sanibel, so I had Pam check how far it was to Gordon Pass. We went the 7 miles or so bracing ourselves and holding on for dear life. We could hear the dishes and everything else inside the cabinets crashing around as we rose on a crest, and then fell into the troughs. We also discovered a lot of leaks we didn't know we had. Green water over a solar vent is not a good thing. Everything in the V-berth is soaked--including our bedding.

Coming in at Gordon Pass was an adventure. We would surf down a wave, and then bury the bow. Hard over left--hard over right, etc. throttle full--throttle off. If you've seen the movie "The Perfect Storm", it was like that--only the waves may not have been quite as big.

We survived, and are anchored in Rookery Bay south of Naples. (If I were still drinking, I'd be having a cold one right now.) I made a reservation for us at the Naples City Dock tomorrow night. Pam still wants to do laundry, and after today's adventure, I need some clean underwear.

It's supposed to get down into the 20's, and another front is coming through with stronger winds tomorrow, so we won't attempt traveling in the gulf until the wind dies down. Probably Friday or Saturday.

Tailless

2-2-09

I went fishing this morning, while Pam stayed on the boat.

I was catching some nice trout and an occasional ladyfish.

As I was reeling in a trout, he was splashing a lot on the surface. Just then, an osprey swooped down and tried to grab the trout. I've had pelicans do this before--but never an osprey. He didn't get this trout, but he sat close by in a tree and waited for me to hook another.

Later, I hooked another trout, and it wasn't the Osprey that got him, but something did.

I was a little cautious about rinsing my hands in the water after that.

2-3-09

Leaving Fakahatchee this morning. Overcast and rain. Another cold front with wind is coming Wednesday, and we're going to try to go outside today to Sanibel. Wind forecast today is 10 - 15 from the NW (on the nose), so it may be a rough trip. (Or we may put in at Naples or somewhere and wait till later in the week.

Fakahatchee Pass

Sunday 2-1-09

We motored about 15 miles but only relocated about 5 miles. Had to go out in the gulf and then back in through a cut.

We're in Fakahatchee Pass.

N 25 degrees 52.014 minutes

W 081 degrees 30.403 minutes

This place is even more remote than before. We can occasionally hear an airboat off in the distance. That's our only connection with civilization. (If you can call those things civilized.)

These "passes" are more like rivers. The current is strong (5-6 mph) and of course reverses itself and flows the opposite direction. In addition, parts of it are 15 feet deep, but just a few feet away, it's only inches deep. Makes for interesting navigation and anchoring. Maybe that's why there's no one else here.

Here's sunrise 2-2-09

I have a free program I downloaded for my laptop called SeaClear II. I also have a GPS I bought on eBay for $30 that plugs into a USB port. Together, they are a "chart plotter" that shows our boat's location on the NOAA charts. (Also available to download free.) The charts are very detailed, and so far have been accurate. We could not have found our way in these places without something similar.

Russell Bay

We left Everglades City about 3 pm and motored out into an incoming tide.

We've seen several manatees. (Taste like chicken)

We went back near Russell Bay to anchor for the night.

I had some chunks of ladyfish that I had put in a jar three days ago. As you might imagine it was quite odiferous. I was sitting out on the back porch lazily catching topsail catfish.

I had just cast out my line again, and had not yet set my pole down, when something grabbed my bait and took off. My drag was loose, and this fish was screaming away from the boat at a high rate of speed. I cranked down the drag to slow him, but I never even got his attention. He spooled me in seconds, and I thought all my line was gone when my pole stopped bending over double. As it turned out, the fish had broken, cut, or bitten my steel leader off clean. I'm sure that was the largest fish I'd ever had on the end of my line - ever.

Isn't that right, Pam?

Yes, signed, Pam